It’s been quite an unconventional day. As this point it’s hard to believe this is how it’s going to end ( in fact, even more so than usual, it feels like there’s going to be no clear transition between today and tomorrow). I write this reflection amidst the chaos of a recently departed ‘Superfast Ferry’ bound of Ancona, Italy from Igoumenitsa, Greece. At the moment, a voice is telling us what to do in the wake of an emergency - I actually hadn’t even considered that when I boarded this thing. Air travel is starting to seem a whole lot more appealing - sulfur ash cloud or not.
The boat feels pretty full, not packed full but loaded with people - all types, some real characters. It’s a lot harder to avoid them on a big floating raft - it’s much different than the bus or train. Well, in just 14.5 hours we'll be there - super fast! And then my international scramble can continue back on dry land.
As the voice blares in the background with emergency response recommendations, I can’t help but place myself on the Titanic (or how about some other, less fateful cruise ship?) and imagine what ocean liner travel would’ve been like 100 years ago. Probably a whole lot different. I think many of us here are in the same, boat - f’d up by a volcano. I just spoke with my friend Nicos from Athens on the phone who told me the news folk were saying it could be weeks or even months before the volcano calms. I guess I’ve been aware of that all along, but I didn’t really want to accept that reality - or at least think about it.
Well, here I am on a massive, floating nuclear-reactor of a seagoing vessel with countless thoughts flooding through my head. I think I’ll just use it to reflect on the day for the moment.
Breakfast at the hotel kinda sucked. A few mini-pastries that seemed like they may have come out of a box frozen, some coffee and yogurt and I was basically done. I got the details on buses to Igoumenitsa and set off to get my ticket. Took the #8 across town and was there in 15 minutes flat. Got my ticket for 2:30pm, hopped back on the bus and was at the hotel. The whole trip brought me back to my birthday six and a half months ago under very similar circumstances (minus the volcano).
Thankfully, another cup of coffee awaited, and I took that while doing some more net travel research. I wrapped things up at noon (check out time). - trying to make sure I had my bases covered if I were to not make it back in time for Sunday workshops in Vermont and checked out.
With a couple of hours before my flight, I headed to a nice corner cafe up the street for some coffee, souvlaki (not at all the best I’ve had) and a chance to revisit some of the journaling I’d abandoned so long ago. The waitress was incredibly nice and I felt as if I’d picked the right place. I sat under an awning and just passed away time recording thoughts nearly lost from the past week. It turned out there was a marathon (or at least an extended run) going on in the city that day, so the runners steadily pushed past with traffic reduced to only half the primary urban artery.
After an hour or more passed, I made my way to the bus stop and got a call back from Stamatina just as I arrived. It was great to hear her voice - the first time since we said goodbye last week. She kindly told me I was welcome to stay in Athens as long as I needed. If only my flight left from there. I feel a pressing need to get back to the London area so I’m close to the airport if the flights do resume.
I was at the bus terminal with a half hour to spare and passed the time doing more writing. We soon boarded a very modern, comfortable bus and set off on our way. The first part of the route was very familiar - I had passed through it on my last visit to Lefkas. This time it was spring though and everything (especially the valleys) was a whole lot greener. I took a bunch of photos though I’m not sure how they turned out. One particular thing that stood out was the nuclear power plant (or plants) at the high-elevation plain. I’d clearly recalled passing one during the last trip, but not two at separate ends of the plain. It was quite an ominous and unwanted surprise.
After a couple of hours, we began heading more directly southwest, and we proceeded to pass through one of the most incredible engineering marvels I’ve ever experienced - probably well over thirty tunnels totally well over ten miles I would guess. The terrain was amazing - steep mountains on all sides, at one point snow peaked - and our route took us through the thick of it. I can’t even begin to imagine what it must’ve cost. I spent much of the time writing, to the point where my hand started to cramp.
By about 7, we arrived in Igoumenitsa and I made my way to the ferry terminal. I had planned to travel via Bari, but as I searched train times on the internet, it became pretty clear that Ancona was a much better option. It would be cheaper and save time so I set off on the 8[m ferry for Ancona - bound to arrive tomorrow morning at 10:30.
The massive ship’s arrival was quite a sight. Just as I was boarding I got a call from my Athenian friend Nicos. It was great to catch up with him though I feel like I missed out on some important ship orientation that might’ve left me a little less confused.
It just started to pour rain. I’m sitting at a plastic table at one end of the ship’s deck but feel like I’m going to need to seek a greater comfort level soon. It’s a big day tomorrow and I’d like to be conscious for at least a part of it.
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