Needing to catch up on sleep (noting a theme here?) but also hoping to make the most of the day, I split the difference and was up by 8. Feeling largely refreshed from my shower the night before and a night in a big comfortable bed, I headed downstairs for the free included breakfast - something of a ‘fancy’ continental style. What was the most striking was the presentation. Everything was neatly laid out and tightly wrapped on cellophane covered plates. I filled up and then asked the hotel attendant about travel recommendations. He was very kind and helpful though I don’t think he was really able to grasp what I was actually looking for - coppice examples and traditional land use. Nevertheless, he walked me across the map, introducing me to the modestly-sized nation, which was immensely helpful.
When I requested help booking a car, he went above and beyond the call and tree all three rental agencies in Macedonia. Guess what - none! No cars available. I never would’ve supposed it. Well, time to make do again. I chose instead to explore the city a bit on foot and then visit Matka canyon - a place he’d recommended.
I had a few hours before the bust left so I meandered around the city streets, stumbling onto a market, stopping at a car rental company to see if it was really true, passing back through the heart of the city where I bought some roasted chestnuts and then found an incredible cheese-filled pastry - which reminds me - I don’t think I’ve mentioned yet the experience of ordering food which is a complete mystery. Always interesting, it really helps to be open and free of dietary restrictions. By and large, I’ve had very good luck this trip and my willingness to explore has paid off.
It took a while, but I soon found my way to the train/bus station - just across the road from an overgrown field full of dock (Rumex) and populated by two tethered, grazing horses. I got to the local bus terminal with some help and sucked up diesel fumes until my bus arrived. I wonder what stories this aging fleet could tell. Where did their active lives begin? The ‘bus’ to Matka canyon arrived a few minutes early and it was more aptly named a mini-short bus. With about fifteen seats (one on either side of a large, central aisle) it was really more of a big van that appeared to have been placed in service a good 30-40 years earlier. The sole rider at this point, the driver struck me as your classic eastern European man - crisp, full facial features, cleanly cropped short hair, an old polyester suit coat and a cigarette dangling from a wooden holder. I knew that I could trust this man with my life.
The bus gradually filled up and I found myself fading in and out of sleep. I soon got up to give my seat up to an older woman that got on, but while standing had no context for where we were. In another fifteen minutes or so, I had a place to sit again and watched us climb the hillside through small villages, finally reaching the end of our section of road.
A full fiver faced along between two steep mountainsides and what I first noticed was the kayak race course below. This was obviously a tourist area at certain times of year. This was not one. I had thought about grabbing a bite to eat at one of the restaurants, but they both seemed closed.
Curious, I crossed the river on the old concrete bridge and started up a foot path that I followed for about an hour. I had two hours before the last return bus would arrive. The landscape was exceedingly rocky with only very small, stunted woody vegetation - primarily box (Buxus spp), occasionally birch, ask and shrub oak. There was a light groundcover in places with some lovely wild yellow iris. I’m not sure if the seemingly stunted vegetation is the result of extensive deforestation and erosion or rather just due to the harsh nature of this challenging landscape. MUch of what I’d seen of Macedonia had looked like this to this point, and in a place that seemed so mild and moist, I had expected to see more rich forest.
Just then, three busloads of children arrived on the other side of the river and their enthusiasm was overwhelming. Loudly singing songs and screaming about the river, it was wonderful to share in their excitement. I continued up the moist, rocky path, enjoying the views, birdsong, roaring water, clean air and smells. The rock faces spoke of something ancient and mysterious - nearly vertical in many places. I stopped at what appeared to be my best view before needing to return, overlooking the hydro plant below, took a few moments to meditate and gave thanks.
Once I returned to the base of the river, I nearby and passed twenty minutes or so before the bus arrived. I noticed a modest-sized branch lodged against the river bottom, caught in a roaring deluge of water and appearing to be slowly dragged along, but at the same time unflinching. I watched to see when it would finally give way, recognizing it as an analogy for my life and that of other activists. How long can one fight the flood that is the status quo before you’re forced to give in? The branch didn’t - at least not while I was around.
The same driver returned and tried to tell me something in Macedonian, but I couldn’t understand. He was frustrated. I think he was telling me the bus didn’t return all the way into the heart of town.
When we reached the end of our route, he stopped and a young man told me ‘last stop’. I nodded and smiled, and when I got off, he stopped to make sure I knew how to get home. I was truly touched by his conscious compassion.
I started my return home, and the sky opened up (with rain). I was very glad to have brought my umbrella. The walk proved far longer than I’d thought. All things told I walked over 15 miles that day.
I was beginning to wonder if my internal GPS had steered me awry. Then I passed a small mall and saw a Hertz sign (rental car company). I went to ask about cars for the next day (none) and directions. I was only one block away from home (and from an Avis rental company in the mall). I begrudgingly entered the very modern mall and found a sight not unlike that in the States. I stopped at Avis and was able to reserve a car for Saturday - all was not lost! I popped into the near American-sized supermarket to see what they had available - it made me want to support a small corner-store style vendor.
On the way to the hotel, I stopped to eat the lunch I’d never had - I definitely had to settle for convenience. The cranky woman was no help and the only thing I could figure out they had was a hamburger (same pronunciation in Macedonian). The Skopsko beer helped me down it (not that I don’t like burgers - it just wasn't that great). I will say that the presentation was very nice - served with fries and a small salad. Very reminiscent of California’s ‘In and Out Burger’.
It was after seven by then, and I returned to my hotel room exhausted. Intending to go out and explore the Friday night life (and get a proper Macedonian meal), I also wanted to make sure I wasn’t overtired for my tour of the countryside the next day. I got caught up in TV and computer work, and the hard rain outside sealed the deal - I was asleep and in bed by nine and slept through until 8 the next morning.
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