A modest sleep-in again began my day. This morning it wasn’t quite so cool making for an easier transition into the day. We definitely eased into things. Patches of sun shone through the sky making the day’s potential seem a whole lot more promising. I spent some time reading Water Storage by Art Ludwig and otherwise just taking it easy. My right shoulder has been very sore and is in serious need of a flat hard floor on which to practice my racquetball massage technique.
Stamatina and I began to discuss a time line plan for the building project here. She is intending to solicit funding to help cover the costs of site development and construction - to develop this place as an education/demonstration center, so it’s important that we come up with a clear budget and implementation schedule. We walked through the process of renovating the structure in it’s current form, exploring the steps that would be necessary and the tools and materials we would need. That’s about as far as we got in the discussion, but it was a productive first step. We still need to talk about land use and development. I’m not sure what Stamatina’s ideas are there - I know she has a vision of developing a spiral patterned planting that includes a labyrinth-type walkway. I tried to more clearly describe swale design and function, hoping to steer her towards an interest in a more naturally derived pattern. I have reservations about an imposed landscape plan, recognizing that it really is counter to the spirit of permaculture. I’m not sure how that resonated with her, but I think I made it clear.
Around mid-day, we packed up our things to go to the beach. It didn’t quite seem like the ideal beach day with the temperature still cool and overcast skies, but I was definitely thankful for a trip around the island. We headed south and pretty majestic views opened up across the channel of the mountain peaks off to the east. I didn't realize that such high elevation terrain was so close by.
As we approached the next sizable settlement to the south, we began to climb the hillside to the west, switching back frequently and with the skill, speed and precision of a Formula 1 racing team under Alex’s steady driving hands. As we rose, the views became ever more spectacular. We were able to see a small island off in the channel that they described was owned by the Onassis’ family - like Jackie O - where they once used to spend a lot of their time. I didn’t realize that she/they were Greek.
We stopped off at a lookout and enjoyed the view for a few minutes. From there we continued to climb and stopped at a developed spring where we collected water and explored some of the natural creeks and vegetation nearby. It’s so interesting to see the culture of development around springs here. Probably dating back centuries, each spring usually has some masonry facade with a decorative face where the water emerges. Definitely the sign of a people who at least once realized the true value of water.
We piled back into the car, and I was informed would continue our journey across to the west side of the island. Very soon thereafter, I began to notice an intensively terraced agriculture around us. Primarily olive groves, this was really the first landscape that I’d noticed such deliberate stone terraces - something I’d expected to see far more of during my trip. I’m not sure why I hadn’t seen much terracing to date, but it made a lot of sense in this topographically rich landscape.
We passed through a few high mountain settlements and the presence and impact of tourism was relatively apparent. The rain had been intermittent during our trip; occasionally we were pummeled by heavy downpours. About mid-way across the width of the island, we enjoyed a lovely sweeping view of the valley below, broken by a ridge on the opposite side. There on the far side rested a massive reservoir - a dam that looked like a picture perfect embodiment of keyline placement - with the high water level at the keypoint of a fairly large convergence of hills. I did my best to capture it at 55 mph - hopefully I snapped at least one shot that turned out.
We stopped for a photo shoot at some very
well-defined terraces that primarily served as cultivation space for grapes, and then began to descend the west side of the island. The water below was a gorgeous aqua blue along the shore, growing deeper in its color about 150’ from shore. We arrived at a sandy beach and set ourselves up in a small cove where we enjoyed the sizable surf, occasional sun and pleasant swimming. The current was strong and at one point I felt a little concerned that I was getting sucked close to some large rocks to the north against my will (and also realizing that I had made little progress in returning to shore though I had been attempting to do so for some time). I did make
it back in the end.
I caught some relaxing sleep for at least a few minutes and thoroughly enjoyed the full strength of the sun at a few points during our beach time. That said, it had grown pretty late at that point and we really hadn't eaten much yet so we packed up and headed back home. This time we made our way north along the west side of the island and wrapped back around through Lefkas before returning home.
While Stamatina got dinner underway, Alex and I (and Stamatina as well) scraped the residual earthen plaster from the floors, windows and baseboards in the wake of the base coat they had applied over the easter holiday when they were last at the house. We shared a dinner of pasta, fried eggplant (man is that good), cucumber, feta, sausage and bread and went on to discuss the tax system here in Greece, comparing it with that of the states. It sounds like we’ve got things pretty good in the States.
They pay an 18% tax on most goods and services - the V.A.T. tax, but for ‘luxury’ items (which ironically enough includes the compulsory helmet motorcyclists and ‘scooterers’ must wear) carry at tax of something like 38%. This makes luxury item purchase fairly uncommon here. Food carries a 9% tax as well. There is an income tax but they weren’t sure what it was since they didn’t earn enough to owe it (at least 10,000 Euros).
This conversation then began to evolve into an exploration of Greek psyche and culture. Alex told me how most Greeks today live in a world of chemical use and generally little concern for the health of the landscape they inhabit. He described how the city of Athens is a haven for birds because people in the country are constantly shooting at the wild ones that make a home there. For most, they can’t imagine a life with out the use of chemical herbicides and fertilizers as a means of controlling vegetation and pests. That just about anything living becomes something that they’re seeking to control.
It’s very difficult to build on Lefkas - at least in certain areas - because there are large concentrations of archaeological remains. If you were to begin a project and uncovered some type of archaeological evidence while excavating, the entire project must be stopped and the archaeological bureau contacted. This could put an end to a building project. Thus, space is at a premium which has its benefits in regards to limiting development.
Apparently, many German retirees are cashing in and buying up homes in the uplands on Lefkas. The Greeks that sell these properties are then turning around and building large homes in the lowlands. Alex described how generally the Germans have a much more considerate land ethic than Greeks and are far better stewards of the land. They appreciate the environment and attempt to minimize their impact. Greeks, on the other hand, do not share that paradigm.
This conversation thread was very interesting and served as another highlight to underscore the need to really work towards enhancing cultural evolution and change more than anything else. A very challenging task.
Stamatina and I continued the conversation and then explored the Nea Makri project in detail, discussing ideas for strategies to transform that place into something of an example. She believed that the first step should be to clean the place up - before doing anything else. I think she makes a good point. It would certainly have an impact and bring visibility to the place and may also help take a small step towards encouraging a culture of reverence for the natural world. Our discussion took a number of tangents - at one point we were dowsing with my cell phone charger cable.
We spent a bit of time putting things back in the main room of the house after having cleaned it, and I began to feel the strain of too many days with too little sleep so here I am ‘going to bed’. I will be asleep soon. Tomorrow we head back to Athens.
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