Last day

My last day in Greece.  It proved to be a largely relaxing one with ample opportunity to spend time and reflect with two of my most gracious hosts during this experience.  Stamatina had invited me to join her to visit her gallery near the Acropolis in the center of Athens.  We hopped on public transport and headed into the city.

Just a few short blocks from the heart of the historic site (though it's kind of all historic there), we stepped down into a small, thick walled space with white walls and deep window reveals at street level.  It was great to have a chance to see the space she's developed to express her own inspiration and also help share the work of others with the wider public.  While it was currently in a state of transition we explored several of the pieces that remained.

A good friend of hers stopped by to visit, ironically enough, just as she was showing me a series of his photography devoted to people's relationship with the sea.  While they conversed, I sat outside on the street and took in my surroundings, noting a dense 3rd floor terrace garden with healthy banana plants hanging over the rail as well as what appeared to be several drooping pomegranates peeking out from the rooftop garden.  

When Stamatina rejoined me, she told me out the recent redevelopment of the street and how the original plans had not included any trees or vegetation.  She wrote numerous letters to several civic organizations involved in the process and was eventually offered the opportunity to submit a design, which after several revisions was accepted for installation (though modified yet again).  It included a row of (I'm forgetting the species at present) trees along the south side of the road.  I found it inspiring to hear how her tenacity had effectively served to bring about her vision for her neighborhood.

We set off from there and wandered the streets surrounding the Acropolis.  So full of history, there were interesting sites and nooks to explore all around.  She shared history and more recent stories with me about a number of the buildings we passed including a lovely stone building from the 30s that was nearly demolished to create a view of the Acropolis for the Acropolis Museum's new cafeteria.  Public opposition along with active effort by a famous composer who had taken up residence there (who's name I cannot recall but I do remember that apparently NASA's Mars Rover played his music as it explored the foreign soil - or something to that effect).  

Our conversation darted from history to hopes and vision for our respective communities.  Probably one of the most exciting things she told me was how permaculture thinking - namely our aims to turn problems into opportunities, recognizing them as really just an overabundance or deficiency of resources, had helped to transform her thinking about how to be effective in the world.  This simple realization for me made so much of the experience feel worthwhile.  

We walked for well over an hour and around 3:00, we had to part ways.  We bid each other farewell (until next time of course).  I am grateful to Stamatina for her vision and action - without her I never would have made this trip and gained the incredible insights and interactions that have come about as a result.  I'm sure our paths will cross again in the not too distant future and i look forward to it.  I also know that she will continue to work towards change which is an exciting prospect for me.  Thank you Stamatina!  I have delighted in you and your family's generosity, hospitality and company.

I stopped at a cafe for a sub par late lunch but it was a nice opportunity to enjoy some streetside dining and relax without carrying my book filled backpack.  The placa surrounding the Acropolis is laden with tourists and all of the 'niches' that come part and parcel with that they of population and consumption.  While I love the character of these historic neighborhoods, I was very happy to move on.

I hopped on the Metro and made my way to the Ponormou station where I went to visit my other activist friend Nicos Anastasopolous.  We caught up on his lovely top floor apartment terrace, enjoying the views, breezes, sun and experiencing the noise of a dense, high traffic urban zone.  We spoke about the work we'd accomplished together during the past few weeks and how we see our cultural transition playing out in the coming years.  Again, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for having connected with someone so active in working to help facilitate change in their surrounds.  

Athens is a challenging venue in which to work - so many that I had met there asked me if I live in 'community'.  What they are really asking is if I live in an intentional community or eco-village.  To me this is truly indicative of the severe loss of that sense of community that they must feel in their environment today.  I would tell folks that 'of course I live in community.  I don't have a choice'.  But it made me feel fortunate to live in a city and region where I do recognize a sense of connection to and with my friends and neighbors.  It also made me recognize the critical need for us to enhance that sense of connection in all places - not just off-the-grid communes working towards a collective ideal.  We sure have strayed a long ways from what our culture once was in a short time.

We left the apartment as the sun began to set and headed to another part of the city to explore on foot and enjoy the lovely evening air.  This place again was laden with history - archaeological relics mixed with more recently abandoned industrial development-turned hip cafe-taverna-tattoo parlor hangouts.  

It was about time to eat and Nicos brought me to a more traditional eatery with an extensive outdoor dining area directly adjacent to a quaint church that had been built atop a 10' high boulder.  I'm not sure if my photo turned out but it was quite a sight - like something out of the Steens' and Komitasu's Build by Hand book.

We shared a wide array of dishes including steamed greens, tzatziki and another tasty spread, fried cheese and a burger of sorts with fries - of course along with wine, this time served in small pewter pitchers.  It was a charming experience and as time continued to pass, the space began to fill with patrons.  As our experience wound down, I took a few moments to soak in my environment and the culture around me.  Culture is a fascinating thing.  I have trouble putting a clear finger on exactly what it is that I notice that is different but the distinctive sense and appearance are striking and I valued the opportunity to absorb another interpretation of human existence for a few more moments.  

From there, we continued our walk in the night wandering through a few different neighborhoods and marveling at the sheer number of people patronizing the dozens of tavernas, clubs and cafes (especially on a Tuesday night).  After considering stopping for a drink, we decided to instead make the responsible decision (I had to get up at 5:15 to take the metro to the airport) and head back home.  We did make one brilliant stop though on the way - an ice cream parlor, thereby fulfilling a 'need' of mine that had gone unfulfilled all day.

Nicos set up a small fold-out chair for me and I enjoyed some deep sleep for several hours.

Now I'm writing from the departure terminal at the Athens airport.  I have a beautiful view of the horizon to the east (minus the runways, jetways and other airport miscellany immediately adjacent) and enjoyed a gorgeous sunrise behind the mountains about 30 minutes ago.  

I woke up on my second alarm this morning, took a quick shower and Nicos joined me to see me off at the nearby metro station.  Yet again I was filled with a deep sense of gratitude both for the friendship and generosity he'd shared but also for the work and inspiration he brings to a place in such desperate need.  Again, I look forward to our future collaborations and path crossing and am thankful for the opportunity he provided me with to scatter some seeds of positivity in a place where succession is just beginning to take hold.

I've got about 18 hours or so of transit ahead of me.  My flight should be boarding any minute but it's going to be a long day with me gaining back 7 loaned hours along the way and assuming all goes well, arriving at home in Burlington at 10:30 tonight.  I'll be posting at least one more reflection on my trip before I bring at least this segment of my travel log to a close.  It's been a pleasant obsession though I'm also looking forward to a life that is a little more bland and noteworthy-less.  How's that for a made up word to end a post?